In general, I think working with any stain is tricky, at least for me, but when I read your plea for help, I recalled hearing somewhere that this product was extra difficult to work with. I always use any stain product after diluting it, usually fifty fifty. For superior durability and long-lasting beauty, the choice is clear — protective clear finishes from Minwax! Each time I took on a new project, I took over the dining room table or the coffee table. All of the hard work in design and building went down the tubes after using this product. I used it as a glaze over a dark grey piece I painted. And when it came time to stain and finish the three unfinished pine doors, I went looking for a way to save myself some time. Use our stain color guide to pick the right stain color for your wood projects. I'm so disappointed with this. Apply a THIN coat of Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane using a high-quality natural or foam brush. When Leigh Ann and I first met, my house was 90% office and 10% home. The first coat needs to be thin and I mean thin as they say in the instructions. Your table is going to be beautiful. Thanks so much for teaching me the proper techniques! Minwax Design Series washes, wood effects and waxes offer new options for bare wood and wood that's already stained. That product is for applying before Minwax stains, it's basically a clear stain base. I did not care for it at all and ended up re sanding just enough to smooth and then I went over with a minwax stain and then polyurethane. Otherwise, I find you have to use a stain to get the right colour/intensity and just use polyshades as a top coat if you want instead of clear poly. You can see flecks in the stain. Is Minwax Polyshades SPRAY good or garbage? Some people love it, others still prefer the two-step method that gives you more control as you apply the stain first, wipe off the excess, let it dry, then apply two or three coats of a clear finish. If so, what should I do to remove the sticky feeling? I would never use that product again. My finance said I must have done something wrong. While there are some situations where Polyshades work very well, the traditional two-step method, stain the bare wood the first day, then apply the finish the next, will always be the most reliable way to have total control over the color of your stain and the sheen of your finish. THEN apply the product. Wood Finishing How-To. Now I’m the blogger behind a Disney inspired Home blog. Sorry to say but as you used mineral spirits & have other issues, I would say you need to sand it back down either to bare wood or as @Kimberly A suggested at a minimum. Helpfull hint!?! Wait at least 6 hours, then repeat process. I am totally guilty of having stained pieces in the past with a foam brush! Does it do a better or worse job than traditional 2 step stain and polyurethane? I use a tack cloth and a foam brush. And here’s another tip I learned: PolyShades® will always work best on flat surfaces, simply because carvings, spindles, and corners naturally pull excess liquid out of your brush. That door turned out gorgeous!! - Bruce. Keeping the brush cleared with thinner keeps the minwax flowing thinner, better, and more consistently; plus, it keeps the minwax wetter longer. I hate this paint! I've used Minwax stains before but not the 1 step Polyshades. Minwax PolyShades enhances wood grain by combining beautiful rich stain color and long-lasting polyurethane protection in one easy step. The better the wood preparation, the better the final result. 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